Tag Archives: fabric history

What About looms?

Weaving as the practice of lacing grasses and twigs and branches and anything else that could be bent and interlaced together dates back as long ago as clothes and thread, about 30,000 years. Loom weaving came about approximately 12,000 years ago. So there is a huge gap between the technologies of thread and the technology of looms.

It is highly unlikely to think that our forebears did not think to weave thread they spun together in the same way they had learned grasses and branches could be woven. And the oldest evidence that they did apply weaving to string long before looms are found dates back to 27000 years ago, with a find where a long lost (apparently) linen woven fabric left an imprint on clay.

So, it is fairly obvious that people were weaving thread long before we have a record of it. But don’t think of it as modern cloth— or even a simple weave like burlap. If you have ever seen a friendship bracelet, you can see a type of weaving that can be done without a loom. Knotted and woven fiber could very possibly been used for clothes and embellishments as well as strapping long before looms came on the scene. Obviously, items such as these would have taken many hours to complete, but one thing our forebears had was time. I can’t see why such labor intensive items would not have been respected for the creativity and skill and time they would take to make. If you see the fairly recent outfit worn by Egtved Girl, you’ll see she was buried with a knotted and woven skirt. While she is only about 3300 years ago, her outfit could easily have been made with technology millennia before.

Weaving and knotting isn’t just for clothing and embellishments. String and the skills to manipulate it would have been used to make nets for carrying and trapping. String likely was also used to wrap things to make hand grips, for decoration, perhaps to mark property. And some archeologists point to the type and placement of selvages on some  imprints or woven remains as evidence of the existence of certain types of looms that we have yet to find remnants of.

Even if looms weren’t around before 12000 years ago, there were ways to weave that didn’t require formal equipment.

More on that next week.

Fabric Blogette: Spinning- the hot new technology

We’ve already explored the first things that would count as ‘fabric’ and ‘thread’ in the past few articles. We even touched on how weaving plants together probably introduced early humans to weaving the cords and twines.

Sometime after the discovery of twisted thread, the earliest spinning tools were invented. A ‘drop spindle’ is very possibly the very first spinning tool. Essentially an early spindle was just a stick stuck slightly off center through a weight. This simple tool would allow a spinner to even walk while spinning, being a very very early multitasking capable tool. A distaff is the tool that would hold the fiber to be fed to the spindle.

Spinning became incredibly important. Before we domesticated animals and learned to spin their hair (or cocoons), we were finding long-fiber wild grasses nearly everywhere, and relatively easy to harvest and prep. Archeologists have found linen shards dating to about 30,000 years ago, long before agriculture.

This sort of spinning was done for tens of thousands of years, until only about 1000 years ago. Someone figured out how to make a machine that would speed up the spinning process, and the spinning wheel (still human powered) sped everything up. Spinning prior to that point was a long process that involved everyone in a household who could to spin constantly. Wheels allowed for far fewer people (normally women) to need to dedicate their time to it.

And yes, the term ‘spinster’ came out of the usefulness of unmarried women to sit and spin their days and help the households. However, so many men spun as well, in the 1600’s English speakers created the work ‘spinstress’ to distinguish between a male and female spinster (despite the — ster already being a female suffix)

In 1764, the Spinning Jenny was invented, which allowed one worker to spin eight separate spools at once. Adaptions continued to be made until the machines produced finer and stronger thread than humans could. Spinning is now both a hobby and a revolutionary act- Ghandi was known to spin his own thread to have clothes completely homemade.

Next week we will start to discuss weaving.

Quick Fabric Blogs: yarn and cords and twine oh my!

It’s not hard to see how tying clothes around you, sticking sharpened bone or sticks through coverings to keep them from falling off easily, or poking holes in them and threading sinew to hold them on was a logical next step. While woven plant matter has not survived the archaeological record well, there is good reason to believe that people were weaving grasses, stems and leaves long before there was thread. Far more complicated than conditioning skins, these weavings could also be used as mats, coverings, shelters, shoes, bags, and carrying tools. It’s not too much of a stretch to see how a simply playing with grasses could lead to weaving a flat matt which could then lead to weaving a three dimensional item. Playing and working with these grasses could very well led to the disintegration of the grass into long fibers in a similar way that drying and pounding sinew gave long fibers to work with. Unlike sinew, these grass fibers were not strong on their own.

At some point, about 30000 years ago, someone playing with or working with grass fibers rolled them on something. By rolling the fibers over and adding more fibers to the roll as the old ones were used up, they developed the very first string, a technological revolution that is often ignored in history. Craftspeople speculate some one was fiddling with plant or animal fibers and was rolling them on their thigh while fidgeting. This would twist the shorter fibers into longer ones, and was very possibly the way thread (yarn, cord, twine, string)  was invented. While it is obvious that this fiber could be used to tie and lace and sew much like sinew, it probably didn’t take long to realize that this worked much better for weaving than sinew or strips of fur would.

I adore checking the history and evolution of words, as they can tell us so much about human history. The word for sinew, very likely the first material used for binding things by humans, comes from the Proto Indo European root word ‘sai’ which means to tie and bind. You can almost hear someone asking ‘give me that thing that ties’ and the hearer knowing exactly what was meant, an example where the thing is named after what it does.

Yarn and cord come from the Proto Indo European root word ‘ghere’ for intestines/ guts!

Here the word harkens back to what these items came from or replaced. It’s also why we call it our spinal cord, and why instruments (made of animal organs for a very long time) allow you to play ‘chords’.

String is from the Proto Indo European root word ‘strenk’ which means tight or narrow. To me, this implies that it is a later appellation and refers to the fineness of the thread as opposed to the material or technique used to make it or its purpose.

If you have spun, my small discussion may have made you say ‘you forgot to double it!’ Single cords were used for ages, but allowing the cord to twist back on itself makes for a stronger and thicker tread or twine. Thread literally means twisted (from the Proto Indo European root word ‘tere’  to rub or turn) and twine means doubled (from the Proto Indo European root word ‘dwo’ for two. All these words are very old, which is fitting for such an important invention and variations. I love seeing how the words changed so logically, and I assume the roots for the Proto Indo European for at least sinew and cord were carried by early explorers into the Levant.

Quick Fabric Blogs: Intro

I don’t have as many cool tips as I wanted to have for finishing projects to have a Finishing Friday. I do, however, probably have a decades worth of small infodumps on various ‘fabrics’, so Fridays will be Finishing and Fabric Fridays now, if that’s ok. There is so much fun stuff about fabric (I will be using that word for a ground which is used either for embellishing or wearing.) I will also be going through different dyes and fibers as well. This will not be a comprehensive listing of all fibers, dyes, and backgrounds, but I hope it will give a wide enough base the length of time spent and confusion encountered when trying to choose a fabric will be minimized.
I will roughly be starting out with as early as we know about, and end with the most modern fabrics we have as of yet. I will try to keep it in chronological order, but that will not be completely possible. 
So I hope you will have fun joining me!