Tag Archives: looms

Looms

So we’ve discussed how simple it would be for the earliest loom technology to not have an imprint in the archaeology. It really seems to me that weaving could not have been too far behind spinning. That we have found pieces of fabric (a rare find in itself) with selvage edges which were obviously made with looms proves that looms existed before we have record of them.

The earliest looms we do know about were about 12,000 years ago. While this corresponds to approximately when we domesticated sheep, it would be several more millennia before humans would stop tanning sheep skins as clothing, and start shearing sheep for their wool leaving the animal alive. The earliest looms must have been continuing the use of plant based fibers. Cotton, hemp and linen fibers were woven into set pieces of fabric, much of which would have a slit cut in the neck (or created during weaving) and then have the edges sewn up, leaving holes for arms. This simple tunic, using the entire piece of fabric that had been woven, formed the basis for early clothing throughout the world. The realization that silk fibers and the hair from animals such as alpacas and sheep revolutionized clothing and animal husbandry, and allowed people to live in less hospitable climates, even if the use of tanned skins started this migration.

What the archaeological record does show is that by 400 BCE, commercial looms are found. People were making more fabric than they needed and selling the surplus as a livelihood, not merely for a little extra cash.  It’s staggering to wonder how many spinsters they would need to create so much fabric, as the next innovation in spinning would not be invented until the first millennium. We have no record of commercial yarn sales yet, but these weaving shops would have needed a lot of yarn.

The tale of Rumpelstiltskin apparently dates back millennia, and suddenly makes more sense. A daughter who can spin quickly and well can obviously ‘spin straw to gold’, or raw materials to money.

Looms: nonexistent or just non evident?

Well, that was a long week.

Right now in our little study of fabrics we’re looking at the gap between the discovery of how to twist fibers into thread/ the invention of spinning and the technology of the loom.

The understanding of simple weaving can’t be too far behind string. Weaving string or grasses or anything around fingers is a common pastime for fidgeters. It would not take much more to tie a few strings together and then knot and weave them to make a strap to use as is, or to attach to other things. Imitating a spider web and creating a web of thread in a forked branch to weave around is also fairly simple to see happening. Setting supports in the ground to use as the edges of a loom would also work. And people today still use ‘stick weaving’, which to me seems an extension of the finger weaving. Multiple long thin sticks with eyes (like needles) could be threaded and laid close together. Weaving is then done over the sticks, which are them drawn through the woven work to allow for the strap to grow longer and larger. This would also leave no signs of a loom in the archaeological record.

Many grasses and sturdier fibers can also be ‘self loomed’, building a frame of the material in the shape of the item you wanted – a bowl, a basket, a mat- and then weaving around it. It’s easy to see that the technology of looms probably existed long before we have any remaining evidence of it, as the materials to use them were likely broken down for other uses or simply didn’t last in the record.

What About looms?

Weaving as the practice of lacing grasses and twigs and branches and anything else that could be bent and interlaced together dates back as long ago as clothes and thread, about 30,000 years. Loom weaving came about approximately 12,000 years ago. So there is a huge gap between the technologies of thread and the technology of looms.

It is highly unlikely to think that our forebears did not think to weave thread they spun together in the same way they had learned grasses and branches could be woven. And the oldest evidence that they did apply weaving to string long before looms are found dates back to 27000 years ago, with a find where a long lost (apparently) linen woven fabric left an imprint on clay.

So, it is fairly obvious that people were weaving thread long before we have a record of it. But don’t think of it as modern cloth— or even a simple weave like burlap. If you have ever seen a friendship bracelet, you can see a type of weaving that can be done without a loom. Knotted and woven fiber could very possibly been used for clothes and embellishments as well as strapping long before looms came on the scene. Obviously, items such as these would have taken many hours to complete, but one thing our forebears had was time. I can’t see why such labor intensive items would not have been respected for the creativity and skill and time they would take to make. If you see the fairly recent outfit worn by Egtved Girl, you’ll see she was buried with a knotted and woven skirt. While she is only about 3300 years ago, her outfit could easily have been made with technology millennia before.

Weaving and knotting isn’t just for clothing and embellishments. String and the skills to manipulate it would have been used to make nets for carrying and trapping. String likely was also used to wrap things to make hand grips, for decoration, perhaps to mark property. And some archeologists point to the type and placement of selvages on some  imprints or woven remains as evidence of the existence of certain types of looms that we have yet to find remnants of.

Even if looms weren’t around before 12000 years ago, there were ways to weave that didn’t require formal equipment.

More on that next week.