Tag Archives: fiber

The Start of Wool

It’s hard for me to comprehend that for millennia, humans used either fur or leather, or plant based fiber. Animal based fiber came later in our history, with the domestication of animals. Wool and silk seem like such basic fibers it’s hard for me to believe they are relatively modern.

While sheep were domesticated around 13-11,000 years ago, they were used for their milk, meat and skins. They weren’t used for their wool until 8 thousand years ago. The earliest woven sheep wool garments are from 6-5000 years ago. The earliest woven plant based textile evidence dates to about 34 thousand years ago. Goats were domesticated even later than sheep, and their wool less selected for.

Llamas and Alpacas were domesticated even later than sheep and goats, but followed the same trajectory of being used for meat, skins, and milk for a millennium or two before people started to use their wool. It’s believed that instead of cutting off the whole fleece in one go, early shepherds would comb their animals hair and use that for spinning and weaving. This is extremely believable. But it’s also possible that they simply picked up the wool.

Very old breeds of sheep do not shed over the course of the year, as many other animals and modern sheep do. They ‘roo’, which means as the weather gets hotter, they shed their entire coat in sheets, much like a snake sheds its skin.

As we’ve already seen, spinning and weaving took an extremely long time to make fabric. A large hunk of sheep wool, messy and clumpy and dirty, could easily become felt, especially since the wool would probably be cleaned after being collected off the sheep. Working wool while cleaning it would mat the wool into itself and form a dense thick cloth. This would save so much time from having to spin and weave the wool and would create a dense warm and water resistant material for shoes, outerwear and bedding.

More on animal fibers later.

Looms: nonexistent or just non evident?

Well, that was a long week.

Right now in our little study of fabrics we’re looking at the gap between the discovery of how to twist fibers into thread/ the invention of spinning and the technology of the loom.

The understanding of simple weaving can’t be too far behind string. Weaving string or grasses or anything around fingers is a common pastime for fidgeters. It would not take much more to tie a few strings together and then knot and weave them to make a strap to use as is, or to attach to other things. Imitating a spider web and creating a web of thread in a forked branch to weave around is also fairly simple to see happening. Setting supports in the ground to use as the edges of a loom would also work. And people today still use ‘stick weaving’, which to me seems an extension of the finger weaving. Multiple long thin sticks with eyes (like needles) could be threaded and laid close together. Weaving is then done over the sticks, which are them drawn through the woven work to allow for the strap to grow longer and larger. This would also leave no signs of a loom in the archaeological record.

Many grasses and sturdier fibers can also be ‘self loomed’, building a frame of the material in the shape of the item you wanted – a bowl, a basket, a mat- and then weaving around it. It’s easy to see that the technology of looms probably existed long before we have any remaining evidence of it, as the materials to use them were likely broken down for other uses or simply didn’t last in the record.

Quick Fabric Blogs: yarn and cords and twine oh my!

It’s not hard to see how tying clothes around you, sticking sharpened bone or sticks through coverings to keep them from falling off easily, or poking holes in them and threading sinew to hold them on was a logical next step. While woven plant matter has not survived the archaeological record well, there is good reason to believe that people were weaving grasses, stems and leaves long before there was thread. Far more complicated than conditioning skins, these weavings could also be used as mats, coverings, shelters, shoes, bags, and carrying tools. It’s not too much of a stretch to see how a simply playing with grasses could lead to weaving a flat matt which could then lead to weaving a three dimensional item. Playing and working with these grasses could very well led to the disintegration of the grass into long fibers in a similar way that drying and pounding sinew gave long fibers to work with. Unlike sinew, these grass fibers were not strong on their own.

At some point, about 30000 years ago, someone playing with or working with grass fibers rolled them on something. By rolling the fibers over and adding more fibers to the roll as the old ones were used up, they developed the very first string, a technological revolution that is often ignored in history. Craftspeople speculate some one was fiddling with plant or animal fibers and was rolling them on their thigh while fidgeting. This would twist the shorter fibers into longer ones, and was very possibly the way thread (yarn, cord, twine, string)  was invented. While it is obvious that this fiber could be used to tie and lace and sew much like sinew, it probably didn’t take long to realize that this worked much better for weaving than sinew or strips of fur would.

I adore checking the history and evolution of words, as they can tell us so much about human history. The word for sinew, very likely the first material used for binding things by humans, comes from the Proto Indo European root word ‘sai’ which means to tie and bind. You can almost hear someone asking ‘give me that thing that ties’ and the hearer knowing exactly what was meant, an example where the thing is named after what it does.

Yarn and cord come from the Proto Indo European root word ‘ghere’ for intestines/ guts!

Here the word harkens back to what these items came from or replaced. It’s also why we call it our spinal cord, and why instruments (made of animal organs for a very long time) allow you to play ‘chords’.

String is from the Proto Indo European root word ‘strenk’ which means tight or narrow. To me, this implies that it is a later appellation and refers to the fineness of the thread as opposed to the material or technique used to make it or its purpose.

If you have spun, my small discussion may have made you say ‘you forgot to double it!’ Single cords were used for ages, but allowing the cord to twist back on itself makes for a stronger and thicker tread or twine. Thread literally means twisted (from the Proto Indo European root word ‘tere’  to rub or turn) and twine means doubled (from the Proto Indo European root word ‘dwo’ for two. All these words are very old, which is fitting for such an important invention and variations. I love seeing how the words changed so logically, and I assume the roots for the Proto Indo European for at least sinew and cord were carried by early explorers into the Levant.