Book review: The Pigment Trail

cover of The Pigment Trail
The Pigment Trail: a feast for the eyes

The Pigment Trail by Debra Luker

After spending some time in India, Debra Luker has collected her inspirations, sketchbooks, and art into The Pigment Trail. Just flipping through the book is a feast for the eyes, as huge two page spreads full of color and texture abound in the book. The colors are a part of \Indian life, and, as Luker explains, change with contrasting elements (a person wearing yellow walking past a vibrant blue wall), the time of day and the lighting, and wear over time. The same image moves and changes as you watch it.

The subjects of the photographs range from miniature drawings posed with flower to huge street scenes of active daily life. And, of course, both the textural and color elements include textiles, hand dyed, with zips of lace and gold work, of brocades and beads.

This is not a how to book, however. While Luker talks of dying fabrics, instructions are not given. Most of the book, in fact, is very lacking in text at all. Instead, we are shown the authors sketchbooks and the real life Indian inspirations for them.

While it is an amazing work while reading it, it lacks the substance that would make a technician return to it. While it inspired me to retake up an embroidery sketchbook, want to design a peacock feather piece, and to look up Zardozi embroidery (Indian metal work), I would only recommend it as a gorgeous coffee table book or requesting it from your local library.

The Pigment Trail: a delight to look at

Looms: nonexistent or just non evident?

Well, that was a long week.

Right now in our little study of fabrics we’re looking at the gap between the discovery of how to twist fibers into thread/ the invention of spinning and the technology of the loom.

The understanding of simple weaving can’t be too far behind string. Weaving string or grasses or anything around fingers is a common pastime for fidgeters. It would not take much more to tie a few strings together and then knot and weave them to make a strap to use as is, or to attach to other things. Imitating a spider web and creating a web of thread in a forked branch to weave around is also fairly simple to see happening. Setting supports in the ground to use as the edges of a loom would also work. And people today still use ‘stick weaving’, which to me seems an extension of the finger weaving. Multiple long thin sticks with eyes (like needles) could be threaded and laid close together. Weaving is then done over the sticks, which are them drawn through the woven work to allow for the strap to grow longer and larger. This would also leave no signs of a loom in the archaeological record.

Many grasses and sturdier fibers can also be ‘self loomed’, building a frame of the material in the shape of the item you wanted – a bowl, a basket, a mat- and then weaving around it. It’s easy to see that the technology of looms probably existed long before we have any remaining evidence of it, as the materials to use them were likely broken down for other uses or simply didn’t last in the record.

New Year Champagne Glass Earrings

Pretty much every one things of sparking wine and New Year’s Eve. Many ears ago, I made this earring to wear for the holiday, because one of the best things about this hobby is the ability to customize everything.

This earring is a little more complicated to create than my other brick stitch earrings. If you know how to do a square stitch, or feel ok compensating, you are set. If all you know is the simple brick, feel free to check out my tiktok, or ask me for a link to the video.

Attached is a PDF with this graphed out. Download it for free, dig out some scrap beads and Happy New Year!

What About looms?

Weaving as the practice of lacing grasses and twigs and branches and anything else that could be bent and interlaced together dates back as long ago as clothes and thread, about 30,000 years. Loom weaving came about approximately 12,000 years ago. So there is a huge gap between the technologies of thread and the technology of looms.

It is highly unlikely to think that our forebears did not think to weave thread they spun together in the same way they had learned grasses and branches could be woven. And the oldest evidence that they did apply weaving to string long before looms are found dates back to 27000 years ago, with a find where a long lost (apparently) linen woven fabric left an imprint on clay.

So, it is fairly obvious that people were weaving thread long before we have a record of it. But don’t think of it as modern cloth— or even a simple weave like burlap. If you have ever seen a friendship bracelet, you can see a type of weaving that can be done without a loom. Knotted and woven fiber could very possibly been used for clothes and embellishments as well as strapping long before looms came on the scene. Obviously, items such as these would have taken many hours to complete, but one thing our forebears had was time. I can’t see why such labor intensive items would not have been respected for the creativity and skill and time they would take to make. If you see the fairly recent outfit worn by Egtved Girl, you’ll see she was buried with a knotted and woven skirt. While she is only about 3300 years ago, her outfit could easily have been made with technology millennia before.

Weaving and knotting isn’t just for clothing and embellishments. String and the skills to manipulate it would have been used to make nets for carrying and trapping. String likely was also used to wrap things to make hand grips, for decoration, perhaps to mark property. And some archeologists point to the type and placement of selvages on some  imprints or woven remains as evidence of the existence of certain types of looms that we have yet to find remnants of.

Even if looms weren’t around before 12000 years ago, there were ways to weave that didn’t require formal equipment.

More on that next week.

Fabric Blogette: Spinning- the hot new technology

We’ve already explored the first things that would count as ‘fabric’ and ‘thread’ in the past few articles. We even touched on how weaving plants together probably introduced early humans to weaving the cords and twines.

Sometime after the discovery of twisted thread, the earliest spinning tools were invented. A ‘drop spindle’ is very possibly the very first spinning tool. Essentially an early spindle was just a stick stuck slightly off center through a weight. This simple tool would allow a spinner to even walk while spinning, being a very very early multitasking capable tool. A distaff is the tool that would hold the fiber to be fed to the spindle.

Spinning became incredibly important. Before we domesticated animals and learned to spin their hair (or cocoons), we were finding long-fiber wild grasses nearly everywhere, and relatively easy to harvest and prep. Archeologists have found linen shards dating to about 30,000 years ago, long before agriculture.

This sort of spinning was done for tens of thousands of years, until only about 1000 years ago. Someone figured out how to make a machine that would speed up the spinning process, and the spinning wheel (still human powered) sped everything up. Spinning prior to that point was a long process that involved everyone in a household who could to spin constantly. Wheels allowed for far fewer people (normally women) to need to dedicate their time to it.

And yes, the term ‘spinster’ came out of the usefulness of unmarried women to sit and spin their days and help the households. However, so many men spun as well, in the 1600’s English speakers created the work ‘spinstress’ to distinguish between a male and female spinster (despite the — ster already being a female suffix)

In 1764, the Spinning Jenny was invented, which allowed one worker to spin eight separate spools at once. Adaptions continued to be made until the machines produced finer and stronger thread than humans could. Spinning is now both a hobby and a revolutionary act- Ghandi was known to spin his own thread to have clothes completely homemade.

Next week we will start to discuss weaving.

Quick Fabric Blogs: yarn and cords and twine oh my!

It’s not hard to see how tying clothes around you, sticking sharpened bone or sticks through coverings to keep them from falling off easily, or poking holes in them and threading sinew to hold them on was a logical next step. While woven plant matter has not survived the archaeological record well, there is good reason to believe that people were weaving grasses, stems and leaves long before there was thread. Far more complicated than conditioning skins, these weavings could also be used as mats, coverings, shelters, shoes, bags, and carrying tools. It’s not too much of a stretch to see how a simply playing with grasses could lead to weaving a flat matt which could then lead to weaving a three dimensional item. Playing and working with these grasses could very well led to the disintegration of the grass into long fibers in a similar way that drying and pounding sinew gave long fibers to work with. Unlike sinew, these grass fibers were not strong on their own.

At some point, about 30000 years ago, someone playing with or working with grass fibers rolled them on something. By rolling the fibers over and adding more fibers to the roll as the old ones were used up, they developed the very first string, a technological revolution that is often ignored in history. Craftspeople speculate some one was fiddling with plant or animal fibers and was rolling them on their thigh while fidgeting. This would twist the shorter fibers into longer ones, and was very possibly the way thread (yarn, cord, twine, string)  was invented. While it is obvious that this fiber could be used to tie and lace and sew much like sinew, it probably didn’t take long to realize that this worked much better for weaving than sinew or strips of fur would.

I adore checking the history and evolution of words, as they can tell us so much about human history. The word for sinew, very likely the first material used for binding things by humans, comes from the Proto Indo European root word ‘sai’ which means to tie and bind. You can almost hear someone asking ‘give me that thing that ties’ and the hearer knowing exactly what was meant, an example where the thing is named after what it does.

Yarn and cord come from the Proto Indo European root word ‘ghere’ for intestines/ guts!

Here the word harkens back to what these items came from or replaced. It’s also why we call it our spinal cord, and why instruments (made of animal organs for a very long time) allow you to play ‘chords’.

String is from the Proto Indo European root word ‘strenk’ which means tight or narrow. To me, this implies that it is a later appellation and refers to the fineness of the thread as opposed to the material or technique used to make it or its purpose.

If you have spun, my small discussion may have made you say ‘you forgot to double it!’ Single cords were used for ages, but allowing the cord to twist back on itself makes for a stronger and thicker tread or twine. Thread literally means twisted (from the Proto Indo European root word ‘tere’  to rub or turn) and twine means doubled (from the Proto Indo European root word ‘dwo’ for two. All these words are very old, which is fitting for such an important invention and variations. I love seeing how the words changed so logically, and I assume the roots for the Proto Indo European for at least sinew and cord were carried by early explorers into the Levant.

Quick Fabric Blogs: The earliest of the early

Last week we talked a little about how humans have been adorning their bodies with various coverings. This week we will start to discuss the different types of coverings humans started to develop.

As far as archaeologists have been able to figure out so far (giving hard answers to such things is pretty impossible, especially as textiles and coverings are so hard to find intact in the archaeological record),   the earliest materials our ancestors used would have been long grasses, large leaves, fur, leather, and sinew. The very first non decorative items humans made out of these materials were likely shoes and carrying items. You can probably imagine how to tie leaves around your feet or even wrap food in leaves to make it easier to carry and stop it from decaying quite as quickly.

It’s also easy to imagine our ancestors carefully removing all the edible flesh from the animals they killed to eat. Scrapers have been found nearly everywhere, proving that early people were cleaning the skins of animals thoroughly. As untreated skins become hard and rot, but chemically altered skins do not, it probably didn’t take long for people to realize that using a common product all humans carried with them (urine) and working the skin to keep it flexible while it was curing, and people had fur: to line sleeping areas, tie to their feet, use as decoration, create bags to carry things in, form walls to block sun and wind, and bundle up in as it got cold. Making leather was simply scraping the fur off the other side.

Internal organs of animals also found uses not as food. Bladders were easy to hold liquid in when clean (and formed early balls for play when filled with air), and the tendons and the ‘silverskin’ of the animals, which were not very edible, were treated much as the skins were. They were cleaned and dried and them pounded until they were flexible and stringy. Between this sinew (which we still use today) and naturally forming vegetation, people were able to create items that could be shaped permanently or made into larger items by using sinew to stitch (the earliest needed found to date is 30000 years old) several pieces of fur or leather together. Knowing how much humans like to decorate ourselves, many archaeologists are sure these items were held together with rudimentary embroidery stitches and decorative items.

Quick Fabric Blogs: the beginnings and the basics

It is very difficult to have proof of anything that happened tens of thousands of years ago, especially when it’s as transient as clothing and fiber.

For many thousands of years our ancestors lived in areas where covering the body in protective items were not needed at all. Areas to sleep in could have leaves and vines and animal products like skins or fur and feathers as cushioning and covering.

But humans love decorating themselves. Early hominid finds nearly always include beads and jewelry and bits we tied around ourselves.

So the start of clothing is most likely an embellishment not *just* a need for protection from the environment. The fact that shells with holes drilled through them dating to 150,000 years ago, shows exactly how much early humans cared for decorating themselves. These shell beads have been found in at least 5 caves throughout northern Africa, allowing experts to speculate about communication, trade, and the very human desire to adorn in the extremely early world.

Dating has shown that shortly after the caches of beads were lost or left behind, humans were skinning animals. They could have used their skins merely in their beds, but knowing that we already adorned ourselves, is it unlikely to see us adorning our bodies with skins? A strange and possibly uncomfortable way to track the use of clothing- something that rarely lasts anytime as long as shell and bone- is to track the evolution of lice.
Humans have suffered from head lice for a very very long time. Long enough that the lice that like living on human heads evolved to be a different louse than is its closest relative on our closest relatives— the chimpanzees and the bonobos. Pretty much the same is true for pubic lice.
Body lice, also known as ‘clothing lice’, is *specific to humans* and tracing the genes of body lice and when they split from the other lice can basically tell us when humans started to wear clothing. And what that tells us is that, about the same time we were drilling holes in shells to adorn ourselves, we were decorating our bodies with coverings. While even Africa can have inclement weather humans wanted to protect our bodies from, the history of the body louse shows that we were consistently wearing body coverings before any one left Africa to explore the other parts of the world.

Quick Fabric Blogs: Intro

I don’t have as many cool tips as I wanted to have for finishing projects to have a Finishing Friday. I do, however, probably have a decades worth of small infodumps on various ‘fabrics’, so Fridays will be Finishing and Fabric Fridays now, if that’s ok. There is so much fun stuff about fabric (I will be using that word for a ground which is used either for embellishing or wearing.) I will also be going through different dyes and fibers as well. This will not be a comprehensive listing of all fibers, dyes, and backgrounds, but I hope it will give a wide enough base the length of time spent and confusion encountered when trying to choose a fabric will be minimized.
I will roughly be starting out with as early as we know about, and end with the most modern fabrics we have as of yet. I will try to keep it in chronological order, but that will not be completely possible. 
So I hope you will have fun joining me!

Information every needle worker can use: RSN Stitch Bank

Sometimes, it makes no sense to ‘reinvent the needle’. There are some amazing resources on the web for needle workers of all types, and I am going to share some of the best and most useful ones I have found over the past few decades of needle working. Search the keyword ‘needlethread’ for all my posts showcasing helpful sites.

First is the RSN (Royal School of Needlework) Stitch Bank. This is a digital stitch dictionary for both surface work and counted work, as well as specialties such as mirror work. They are endeavoring to catalogue stitches old and new to make sure there is a record of them. So this is inherently a huge stitch dictionary, where you can search via technique, or stitch use, or merely browse the collection. And you can create your *own* library of stitches you can access on the site.

Each entry has a photo of the completed stitch, its name, some information about it, the stitched worked *with a click to flip* to see how it would be worked left handed! It also has a video showing how it is worked, and then what category stitch it is, common uses for it, what techniques use it, variants of the stitch, and related stitches. It also has each stitch documented, and examples of the stitch in use.


Please check it out.

It is wonderful to live in the future.

and buy hyacinths to feed my soul…

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